It's A Clambake!

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Cow is good, mind you.

But after 30 days of 100+ heat, we're over cow. Seriously.

So Bon Appetit has a great, quick single-pot clambake recipe this month! A quick trip to local Quality Seafood, and a quick trip to Williams-Sonoma, and we're on the steam. Hardware is essential here - as it's really steamed, and not boiled. 

Hardware -
30 quart steamer (got enamel for this time around, $40)
Lobster zipper/crackers
Newspaper
Ramekins for melted butter

Software
Bon Appetit August 2011 - One-Pot Clambake
Bon Appetit August 2011 - Chili-Thyme Seasoning

Additions to Recipe -
Bell's or Old Bay Seasoning
Tony Chachere's Creole Seasoning Salt
Shrimp
Crab

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Once tossed on the paper, easy to serve - most of the 'time' was spent cracking the lobster to split between 4 (I quartered the recipe.). The delightful surprise was the tenderness of the potatoes, which were really delicious being at the bottom closest to the water/wine mix, and received whatever dropped from the steaming liquids from the top items. 

The Chili-Thyme Spice was amazing - absolutely tossed over the spilled-out food and some on the table to sprinkle during dining. It was salty-spicy, and the zest was a great brightener. It settled into the butter each time you dipped a food - so the individual ramekins of butter was filled with the spice as the meal went on. Definitely a keeper, easy to make, and stores in a jar.

The mussels were stunning dipped in the spicy butter, so was the corn - almost like Mexican corn, with the level of chili-thyme spice in the melted butter. 

The additional Tony's and Bell's did avoid it being wholly dependent on the chili-thyme spice - I think it would have been bland if I had not tossed those mixes into the steamer pot.

Last tasty surprise - the garlics were SO soft, they melted, and were filled with flavor. Spread easily on the corn or potato, or simply eaten as they were - they were not overwhelming. Steaming muted the harshness, but it was still garlicky. And with the butter - they were incredible.  The lemon and orange were ideal - squish those over the pot at the end before serving. They fall apart in your hands.

And the egg as a way to test the doneness of the lobster - pure old school genius. And great to eat with the food.

Total time - since a first time to make - 45m.

Serve - tossed out on paper, chili-thyme tossed on, lemons/oranges squeezed out, dig in. Ramekin of half-stick butter each, melted, chile-thyme jar on the table. Add a side of crisp, fresh cole slaw, and a big glass of tea or beer. 

And a PILE of napkins.

Pizza Treatsa

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Still trying to find ways of spending a cow. It's pretty damned difficult. Yes, there's always grilling, pan-frying, low and slow braising, and stew. We've noshed on ribeyes, sirloins, t-bones, ground chuck, cubes, chops.

I mean - how many steak photos can I show you?

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However, got a new one this week.

The key was finding a dough that would work quickly. While the meat and ingredients had to be tasty, it was the dough that'd be the lynchpin, particularly as pizza is often a last-minute thought. I'd have no time to really get a dough, get it to rise - did I even have any yeast to begin with - rise again, and then roll out? And knowing me, I'd kill the gluten and end up with crappy dough anyway. (Working on my dough skills is another blog project altogether.)
  
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Turning to my trusty resource - le 'Net - I found a few quick dough recipes that still called for yeast but no rising. Here was the difference I found:

1) mix all dry, including yeast, then put in warm water at the mixer. supposedly yields slightly breadier dough.
2) bloom yeast with water and sugar first, then put into the rest of the dry. supposedly yields crispier 'tuscan' style.

I optioned 1, figuring I could roll it out super-thin, to get the best of both worlds. Chewy, but thin. And with a stone for hot cooking, it'd be awesome. I did have a bit of time, so it did rise for maybe 30m.

Honestly, it was ok. My mom wanted her side cooked more, so it stayed in longer. I think it was overcooked as a result, since it's going to cook on the stone more. She saw the tomato on her side as a little soft, and to 'cook it more'  that meant the pizza got overdone.

Not bad for in the moment, but made it difficult to have leftovers. Bread was chewy and toppings dried out. 

Next time, separate pizzas. She can burn hers up if she likes. :P

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Bread -
- 2 c flour, tsp salt, yeast, 2 tsp sugar.
- 1 c water, 2 tbl olive oil
Mix dry in mixer with dough hook. Add in water slowly to let it gather. Push down with spatula. Add rest of water and oil as needed to form. Let mix for 4 mins or till ball forms and is glossy. Put into oiled bowl and let sit for a few if you have time, covered, then roll out onto your stone. If not, then roll it out ont your stone. Option - use unbaked, or you can bake for 8-10m, pull out, and then top.  You'll have enough dough to do one large or 3 individuals, depending on your crust depth.

Assembly -
Whatever you want on it. Adjust baking time based on whether the crust was baked once or not. 

Next. Adventures with Pigs?

Eating for Life: Rebuilding Your Kitchen

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So I gave a presentation at the 'Believe' meeting at Seton this past week on rebuilding your kitchen after surgery. We had a great turnout of nearly 30, plus a nice presentation from Snap Kitchen, and a raffle of a delicious box of fresh vegetables from Farmhouse Delivery.

The gist of the presentation - you can rebuild your relationships with the kitchen, family, and your own self by rediscovering what's key about food. Fresh, local, flexible and easy on your diet and wallet. 

Thanks, Travis, for the techsupport. :P

Hopefully everyone had a great time. Anyway, check out the kitjer believe presentation.pptx!

Big Ol' Pot o' Red

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After watching my other half make several tasty meals from La Vache, I decided it was my turn.  Something simple and tasty involving ground meat... hmm... Chili!

I remembered that I had used a particular ready-made chili kit from the supermarket in the past, so I ventured to our local H-E-B and found it on the spice aisle: Wick Fowler's (famous all-natural) 2-Alarm Chili Kit.

I like this kit because it contains individual packets of all the spices you need: chili pepper, salt, onion powder, cumin, paprika, oregano, garlic, and red pepper, along with a packet of masa flour to thicken it up if necessary.  The back of the box says all you need to add is a small can of tomato paste, water, and your ground beef.  I decided to tweak it a little, so I also bought a can of diced tomatoes and a can of red kidney beans.

Heading home, I put the dutch oven on the stove and started to brown two pounds of the wonderful ground meat that I had removed from the freezer and thawed out in the sink that day.  Boy, when she said that this stuff cooks nicely, she wasn't kidding - the texture was completely different from the store-bought ground meat I was used to.  I added just a dash of Worcestershire sauce because, hey, everything tastes better with Lea and Perrins!

Once the meat was browned, I drained off the fat and returned it to the stove before adding two cups of water, the tomato paste, the drained diced tomatoes, and about a third of a cup of diced onion.  I added all the spices from the kit except the red pepper, since I remembered that it had been somewhat fiery in the past and my dear wife doesn't do well with spicy these days.  I brought it to the boil while stirring it all together, then reduced the heat, popped the lid on, and left it to simmer covered while I washed and drained the kidney beans.

chili.jpgAfter about 30 minutes, it was looking great and in no need of any thickening, so I trashed the masa flour, added the frijoles, and took a quick taste.  I added a dash more salt, gave it another good stir, and left it to simmer gently until Dear Heart arrived home about 20 minutes later.

The end result was a large pot of protein that tasted every bit as food as it looked.  We both went back for seconds, and there was enough left over for another four or five bowls over the next few days.

Job done.

To Combat The Allergy Monster

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Getting down to the end of the first two weeks of Farmhouse Delivery bin, and I had to have a soup. With a bunch of kale, some random potato in the fridge, and easy access to ground beef, one of my favorite soups came to mind - the so-called Italian Wedding Soup. 

Now, I'd never made it before. There's always a first time. Can't be too hard, right?

With a bit of help from the Internet, and a joint effort from @jonetkins, we created a pretty good first-timer's soup. 
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- 1lb ground beef
- salt, pepper, parsley, cilantro
- carrot, garlic, onion (mirepoix trifecta!)
- kale (ok, normally this is escarole or something similar, but hey, kale was in the FD box)
- 10-12 cups chicken broth
- 1 potato
- 1 egg
- 1 c of grated parmagiana-reggiano cheese 
- 1-2 slices white bread, shredded to crumb
- 1 tbl bacon fat

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Easy - 

- into ground beef, mince onion, salt, pepper, bread crumbs, and bacon fat. Mix well, make into 1in balls. Set meatballs into refrigerator.
- in pan, saute onion, garlic, seasonings. Add broth and carrots. Bring to boil, add kale.
- Add meatballs tenderly to the hot broth
- add potato
- in cup, mix egg and 1/2c of shredded p-r cheese
- in hot soup, drizzle the egg/cheese mixture, creating long strands of egg through the broth. 
- serve and top with more cheese  
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It was pretty tasty - we ate a good chunk of it, and put the rest
for the next day. I wouldn't hold it for much longer than that though - this is a soup to eat and enjoy in the moment.

Awesome way to ward off the cedar monster another day!

(Re)Learning with Julia

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Today, took a famous page from a famous book, Mastering the Art of French Cooking

I recall Julia Child from my childhood, watching her on public television, making food. I didn't understand her, of course, and her voice was slightly scary, but she cooked, and it was interesting to occasionally watch.

By the time I was in college, I realized the impact of her show(s), and her status as a food and cultural icon. It wasn't until I read My Life in France that I understood why Julia was revered as she was. Not only for the techniques, regularization, translation, and simplification she provided to the American kitchen, but also for her unabashed love of France, her husband Paul, French kitchens and cuisine, but as well for her hunger to learn, her strength of purpose in an age where women were on a precipice of change, her tireless need to teach and share the things that she loved, without wanting (it seems) much in return.

By the time Julia & Julia came out, well, I was a committed devotee of Julia within my own kitchen, having already realized the place my own kitchen holds for me and the memories of family kept deep within it.

A friend gave me a copy of Mastering, and so, with a freezer full of goodness, I decided to finally give direct homage to Mrs Child (and Mr Child, for he was awesome), Mme Berthold and Mme Beck. I thought, I LOVE their French Onion Soup, but instead, with all of the Farmhouse Delivery vegetables I still had, I'm obligated to do the Beef Bourguignon.

And so we did.

Now, I only have one photo. Why? Because I was too caught up in making it, then eating it. Simply forgot.

I enjoyed standing in my kitchen, pulling out farm-fresh vegetables. Cleaning and chopping them to set my mise en place. My Wusthof knife glinted in the cutting. The mat held nice piles of nicely chopped onion and carrots. My new doufou Le Creuset was French country blue, and I sweated my vegetables in it. The beef tips were so tender right after the first saute to sear. Knew then that it was going to be awesome. 
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After the vegetables sweated and my fond was pulled up from the quickly cooked beef, it all went back into the Calphalon dutch oven, with beef stock and red Aussie wine, and then set into the oven, low and slow.

It only took an hour and a half (not her 2.5h recommended) before the beef tips would fall apart. The pot was strained, the gravy further reduced, and then the meat/vegetables put back with the reduction.

Instead of rice, I made potatoes, roiled in salt water and drained. They were slightly crushed on the plate, while hot, and dollops of butter, coarse salt and pepper were put on. Then a sprinkle of grated parmesan-reggiano cheese and minced fresh parsley for a bright sprinkle of green on the plate.

Then, the beef bourguignon was then ladled on the hot potatoes and served immediately - with a large glass of a hefty cabernet sauvignon.

That was simply one of the best meals at our house.

Thanks, Julia.

Afternoon Delights

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Benefit found - making a quick snack is a breeze. Grab a pound of ground beef out of the freezer, let cold water do its work in the sink, and voila, time to cook!

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This ground beef was one of the 50-1lb packages from la vache. Ground from the entire shoulder, we didn't save any from the front of the cow for short ribs (sadly). They left just enough fat in the grind, I would discover.  I have to wonder if there was a bit of sirloin in it, due to the texture. 

Tossing together a fast Tex-Mex snack only got complicated by the gear. There were corn tortillas sitting in the refrigerator, and they really needed cooking. Decided to bring out the taco shell and taco bowl wires to make my own. 

First, making the ground beef. Saute garlic and onions with a bit of salt, pepper, and cayenne in a pan for 3m. Then tossed in the ground beef. The surprise, after the tougher steaks, was how tender and soft the ground beef was right out of the cryopack. It was not a coarse grind at all. Once it began to heat, it simply fell apart with the right amount of fat. The remainder of the taco seasonings were added, and that set aside.

Discovered that instead of a wide pot with oil, needed a taller pot for the taco shells and bowls. Doesn't take long to cook either - maybe 2m on each side. If that long. 
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 However, feeling as if I'd stepped into Sur Le Table and was cluefree, I didn't realize that the second metal bowl shape wasn't for a second dip, the two parts were offset so one was the bottom of the bowl, and other fit inside. D'oh.

After a quick drain on the racks, tried to use the taco tongs to make tacos. Those were more difficult - they puffed so fast, it was hard to keep them flat so that they would open. But did a few - challenging to get off the tongs as well.

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With Tillamook cheese at the ready, fresh greens and parsley from Farmhouse Delivery, bit of onion, and some Pace picante (don't hate, love that stuff), it was easy to plate and prepare.

Suffice to say, we scarfed those. Nothing left. Nothing in the pan, nothing on the counters, all shells gone. Nada. 
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Best part - the amazing ground beef. Can't wait to work with it again!

It's What's In the Freezer

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Most people never think of their food in lots. We have learned, with the rise of the warehouse store concept (Costco, Sam's) to buy in bulk, and usually dry goods or items that are still individually identifiable, but packed in larger quantities.

Meats are still packaged for small consumption, if just for a few days' more. A package of beef, instead of 1lb, is 10lbs. Easy to get rid of for any party or catering event, or even just two to three family meals. There's little fear there that the food will get used, or that the food will go bad while being consumed. It's easily managed by breaking into two packages, putting into the house freezer, or using it up in a large meal or three.  

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Committing to a carcass of an animal engenders more fear - an entire cow!? Where do you get it? What will you do with it? Where does it go? At the end of the day, the worry may be 'where do I put it before it goes bad and I waste a ton of money'? 

That anxiety is understandable, but it's key to remember -

1) In  year's time, if you are a beef-eater, how much beef do you eat? In six months? You may be surprised.

2) Beef costs in 2010. The Beef Retail Marketing organization's average wholesale cost of beef (per lb) for the last week of 2010 tells a costly picture (2010 vs 2009) -

  • bone-in ribeye - $4.43 / 3.64
  • boneless ribeye - $4.86 / 4.29
  • tenderloin (muscle on) - $8.37 / 7.83
  • strip loin (boneless) - $3.97 / 3.92
  • strip loin (bone in ) - $3.32 / 3.19
  • top round - $2.05 / $1.69
  • brisket, inside skirt - $2.77 / $2.20
  • brisket, outside skirt - $3.12 / $2.25
  • various fat content/coarse ground chucks/beef - range $1.66 to $2.32 / $1.40 to $2.08
Those are average prices for wholesale, not the retail prices you pay at the counter, repackaged into household individual servings. Suffice to say, the markup once it's a packaged single ribeye $12.99-$15.99 /lb, from your local upscale grocery store.

3) Our household dietary needs demand regular protein - my own consumption should be 100g/day, however, I'd like to be at 120g/day. That's a lot of protein. Now granted, fish, milk, eggs absolutely contribute to this. But making it affordable, convenient, good quality protein at my fingertips is a solid win towards my health. Here's a note from Beef Issues Quarterly (BIQ) (isn't that awesome), Dec 2010, commenting on the 2010 Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee's recommendations about plant-based diets and nutrition that would become part of the 2011 government-issued nutrition guidelines (we're overweight, but undernourished). Think the DGAC is encouraging plant-based diets (instead of just lean protein in diets), and BIQ (heh) had something to offer in rebuttal -

While beef contributes only 5 percent of the total calories and 8 percent of the total fat to the American food supply, it provides 29 percent of vitamin B12, 20 percent of the zinc, 14 percent of the protein, 13 percent of the vitamin B6, 9 percent of the phosphorous, 8 percent of the niacin, 7 percent of the potassium, 7 percent of the iron and 5 percent of the riboflavin. According to a 2005 analysis of NHANES data, beef eaters are more likely to meet nutrient requirements for protein (11%), vitamin B12 (24%), iron (13%) and zinc (26%) than non-beef eaters. 

and

There is a need and an opportunity for the beef industry to take an active role in educating consumers, as well as food, nutrition and culinary thought-leaders, about lean beef's nutrient advantage in a diet that is also balanced with fruits, vegetables, whole grains and low-fat dairy. 

Understandable their concern. They promote beef. But their point is well-taken - and from my own dietary standpoint, that's the key reason for such a protein-heavy diet - while I love grains and fruit, some nutrition is chock-full in protein sources, and if there's a choice to be made on what to ingest, protein wins here as first option, every time.

But I digress -

MeatFridge.jpgThe average price range for a carcass, during our research, was anywhere from $2.50 - $4/lb, cut and packaged. Now while these were soft numbers, it was clear to us that we were in the right zone for it to be cost effective, considering the amount of beef that we consume in a year and the retail price we were paying at the store registers and restaurants. Between ribeyes, ground beef, burger places (love you, Hut's), dining out at steakhouses, seafood joints, or scarfing meat at the local churrascaria (love you, Estancia), could we safely say that we ate more than the US average of 100 lbs a year, per person.

The most complex thing about the choice to find a healthy, tender animal from a reputable source are the logistics. We're fortunate to have friends in the industry (it is Texas, you know), so it was easy to discuss this option with them, and get their impressions. As it's something they live with daily, it was great validation that purchasing a carcass was a cost-effective and high-quality route. In fact, as things go with friends-of-friends, there is a desire to ensure the best quality available (to keep the wheels of reciprocity spinning happily).

Timing, costs, cuts, processing, packaging, age, live weight, yield - all of these were considerations. More on that later.




Cooking La Vache

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So it seems that cooking le vache may be a challenge. 

We took out two ribeyes, first two from the lot. 2 days frozen in the fridge, then a day out to thaw in the sink. @jonetkins cooked them, but while his was nice and tender, mine was a bit dry and tough. 
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We're wondering if it was simply overcooked - though he says that the two steaks had different textures even before cooked. I suspect it was where they were from on the carcass - his was ribeye towards the back while mine may have been from towards the shoulder. 

They certainly looked cut differently - which suggests that we also have to check cuts better when getting them from the freezer.

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Salad was good - Farmhouse Delivery organic greens, their apples minced, walnuts + cranberries and a bit of crumbled Maytag blue cheese. Oka's dressing on top. 

This weekend's challenge - a soup with beef cubes and vegetables!

Straight from the Farm

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First delivery arrived today from Farmhouse Delivery, a local CSA, made up of various family and urban farms. In addition, they also provide access to other local producers and artisans. 

farmhousebox1.jpgThe box was left safely near the front door, in a clear, sealed bin. No worries on the produce being damaged. Inside, the vegetables were on a bed of shredded paper and had a quick 'ice block' to keep things cool, which was really a pony soda bottle filled with water and frozen. Nifty idea. Eccles brought the vegetables inside and revealed some beautiful surprises: 

- carrots, bright orange, lush green tops
- red cabbage, dark and wintry
- kale, big leafed and firm
- small apples, crisp, cool 
- meyer lemons, not thick-skinned, likely full of juice
- green onions, with bits of black earth on them
- cauliflower, heavy with big leaves
- parsley, a full bunch
- avocado, 2, not hard, but not quite ready to turn into guacamole
- organic mixed greens, insta-salad
- potatoes, a surprise, but neat 
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I'd also gotten a set of croissants and buttermilk icing cinnamon rolls, just because. These were provided by Barrie Cullinan Baked Goods where Barrie creates the most amazing breads. The croissants were flaky and buttery, with the right amount of crispness on the outside and edges. The inside wasn't puffy air, but had a slight chewiness.  
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Tore into those quickly and scarfed one with butter, standing there at the kitchen island. I managed to take a bit of the cinnamon roll, but that had to hold, since I still had to make dinner.

Immediately, I started to worry on whether I'd get through all of the vegetables in the next two weeks, but then realized that a soup with beef cubes may be in our future this weekend.

Vegetables + Cow = Soup

All in all, very pleased by the first delivery.

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